Bom Dia!! — Rio de Janeiro, Brazil
Where I stayed
BEST WESTERN PLUS Sol Ipanema Hotel Rio de Janeiro
BEST WESTERN PLUS Sol Ipanema Hotel Rio de Janeiro
Rio de Janeiro, never thought that I would make it here. Almost a place of imagination that never dreamed of traveling to. But I am here and we made it and it is raining.
Rio is massive. There is a general population of almost 7 million people. The surrounding area has almost 15 million in total. The city of Rio was named by the Portuguese who entered the bay of Guanabara in January 1502. They thought it was the beginning of a river so named it January River (RIo de Janeiro). The Portuguese and France fought over boarders and bays but Portugal eventually won control. For a time Rio was the capital of Brazil, but in 1960, the capital was moved to Brasilia.
Arriving in the evening, the traffic from the tourist transport bus was insane. Between buildings, cars, people this place is insane. It sprawls out forever and just continues on. Took almost 2 hours to get to Ipanema to our hotel, yes I said hotel and meant hotel. Not a hostel, no dorm, no bunk beds or shared bathrooms. A proper hotel, it is a beautiful amazing thing. A shower with doors and a doesn't drown the bathroom. What a treat!! Checked in, and starving so went around the corner to a restaurant. Was busy so figured a good choice. Ordered a caipirinha (traditional Brazilian drink), very strong but tasty and the fish stew with coconut sauce. It came out and had to be placed on an extra table...rice, sauce and delicious fish with a massive prawn. It was delicious, could have shared with more people than just me!! Left with a food baby and crawled into the clean and fresh king size bed!!
Thursday, had a bit of a sleep in and checked out the breakfast buffet...yup and not just cereal and bread and juice. Fruit, eggs, bacon, coffee, teas, filled up with two cups of coffee. We had arranged to go on an afternoon tour to see Christ the Redeemer and Sugar Loaf mountain so had the morning to spend wandering around Ipanema. Walked down to the Lagoon, very large in the middle of Ipanema. Looked to take a bike and ride around but all rented so walked for awhile around and back. Tons of people out and about as it was a holiday. Running, walking, biking and exercising outside along the lagoon on the playground looking equipment. Took it for a spin. Think Canada needs this, could go for a run and do weights ect all outside and at the same time. Would be fantastic. Did a bit more wandering as you do and had some lunch. In the afternoon we were picked up and headed to Cristo Redentor (Christ the Redeemer) which sits atop Corcovado mountain. It is not considered one of the 7 wonders of the world. Sitting 39.6m tall on a 9.5m base with outstretching arms at 30m wide it is the largest art deco statues in the world. The idea of creating it started in 1850s but was passed by until 1921 when the idea of creating the statue was revisited. It was designed by a local man Heitor da Silva Corta and then sculpted by polish-french sculpture Paul Landowski. It took nine years to create and was finished in 1931. It overlooks Rio de Janeiro and stands with open arms representing peace. We were lucky enough that it was not raining and the fog cleared enough for us to see him clearly. Quite an amazing site to see, and the views over looking the city fabulous. The city stretches on forever, can only imagine what it would look like on a clear blue day. Even able to get a few good photos among the masses of tourists.
Next stop,Pao de Acuzar (sugarloaf mountain). Reached there by driving past Maracana, the biggest futebal stadium in south america. Sadly, we couldn't go see it as it is under reconstruction for the 2014 world cup. We also tried to get tickets to a game but some team won and everything was sold out. Really disappointing as wanted to go to a game, was one of the reasons to stay and extra day in Rio. But, what are you going to do? Up many winding cobblestone roads in the back of a vomit inducing van and made it to the base of Sugarloaf. Need to take a cable car to the first and then second mountain. The mountain reaches 396m and powers over RIo. The cable car was created in 1912 and has been updated since. Yet again, amazing 360 degree views, but raining. Had a coffee at the top so that helped being in the rain and fog. Made it back to Ipanema at almost 9 pm, starving but not wanting something too heavy again. Found a sushi place, was a nice change from the same old type of meals. And no food baby tonight. Ahhh, nice to sleep without a food baby.
On Saturday, still cloudy and misty out. Not cold but not the glorious Brazilian weather we were expecting. Walked down and rented some bikes for the morning. Rode down the beach from Ipanema to Copacabana and on past to Leme which is the oldest area in Rio. Was a great ride, along the ocean, past fancy sand castles and just checking things out. Great way to see things. Stopped on way back to hotel and checked out a little market and found the Havianas store and a few other shops. Replaced my decrepit old pair of flip flops finally, nice to have a heel, way more comfortable!! Rode back and had some mexican, ordered the super nachos and they lived up to the name, the biggest plate of nachos that I have ever had and tasty too!! Picked up that afternoon to go on a favela tour.
There are 928 favelas surrounding Rio. Of those, 26 have now been taken over by the police. The largest favela in Rio is Rocinha which we visited. In a 5km radius, over 70,000 people live in between two of the richest neighborhoods in Rio. The first favela started probably around 1897, with some soliders that the government promised land and housing to. Although, they did not provide the housing and the land was a side of the hill. They made houses with boxes and thus the first favela was created. In 2010, 22% of the population of Rio, over 1.4 million people live in favelas. The favelas are generally run by the gangsters and drug lords. There are three main gangs that run them. In 2011, the police and military invaded Rocinha and took over. Arresting drug lords and gangsters and seizing many automatic weapons. The favela is now run by the police, over 650 at this time but many more are needed. The drug trade is still going strong but changes are being made and less deadly weapons are on the streets. Corruption still exists and Rio has a long way to go.
The favela tour was probably one of the most interesting things I have done in awhile. To hear about the people, and life in Rio was eye opening. One of the favelas that we visited, 40% of the tour money goes towards the community and projects such as supplemental education. There is electricity, schools, churches, hospitals. Basically a self sufficient community. Stopped at the top of the favela a a little artisan market. Bought a painting. An incredible afternoon, and more rain.
To Copacabana for dinner along the beach and to check out the night market.Rain still coming down. Sat outside and had another Brazilian feast and a few glasses of wine. No market, too much rain so to bed.
Yesterday, did some more walking around Ipanema. Met up with a tour guide Lisa who took us to the center of Rio. Was actually really interesting learning about the history of Rio, churches, the mint, streets and colonial buildings. Stopped at the Colombi coffee shop, started in 1894. Had a cappuchino colombo ( cap with delicious whip cream on top). Best thing ever. Headed up to Santa Theresa, one of the oldest parts of town. All uphill with cobbled streets. Very nice area. Stopped at the escadaria de Selaron. A staircase that goes from Lapa to Santa Theresa. A chilean artist named Selaron began in 1990 tiling the stairs in Brazilian colours. When he was done he started over and there are now over 2000 tiles along the stairs. It is very cool. We even got to go into his house and meet him. Stopped for a few great views, the sky was finally clear, checked out a castle and a few more artists. Headed to Copacabana to check out the market, now that the rain stopped that is along the beach. Had a buffet dinner...vegetables and more vegetables!!! Finally!!
Today, woke up to shining sun and blue sky!!! Finally!!! Breakfast and off to the hippie handicraft market. In a square, probably over a hundred tents and lots of art work. Walked around for over an hour. Mango smoothie and off to the beach!!! Beach chair, towel and a spot on Ipanema beach for the afternoon. Crazy place. Red umbrellas as far as the eye can see. Great sand. Everything you need, drinks, food, bikinis, sarongs, whatever. Sat, had a kiwi caprihina, beach massage. Everything I thought an afternoon in Rio should be! And the sun still out, could actually see the sunset!
Off to Ilha Grande in the morning. Big Island, beach days!! Fingers crossed that the sun stays out!